Old Valletta

Just thought I'd share these pictures of life in Valletta in the past:

Old Valletta - MALTA

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A facelift for St Magdalen?

Anyone who has stayed at Valletta G-House will have noticed a pretty old church at the top of North Street in dire need of TLC. Ok, this is speculation on my part, but could it be that it's in line to be restored to its original glory?

According to the Malta Independent today, the deconsecrated church (I don't think it's 'desecrated', Ms. Borg) will no longer be used as a store for Carnival floats because veteran enthusiast Pawlu Curmi, well known for his creative creations, has been instructed by the authorities to clear the building.

As much as I feel for Mr Curmi (hopefully he'll land on his feet and find a better place to store his creations), I can't but be happy at the idea of what could be in store for the church.

If I am not mistaken the church was dedicated to Mary Magdalen and it is the one that in the past served the Magdalene Asylum for poor and abandoned young women who were in danger of ending up in prostitution, also referred to in Catholic circles as Magdalens.

I'm intrigued to know if there is already a planning application as well as plans to restore the church.

Kinky metal wear

The Guardian's Jonathan Jones writes about armour in art:

The artist Willem de Kooning once said oil painting was invented in order to portray flesh. He might just as well have said it was created to convey the metallic gleam of armour.

Men regularly wore metal in the 15th century, when oil painting first came into its own, and some of the greatest European painters were fascinated by the strange sartorial splendour of the battlefield and tournament.

You can visit the titillating armour in the Grandmaster's Palace in Palace Square when parliament is not in session.
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Are you ready for a blast of colour?

Carnival 2010 (or il-Karnival as it is known in Malta) will kick off on 12 February this year and it will bring a much awaited injection of colour to Valletta. Here are some pictures from last year's Carnival.

History books were wrong on arid land

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An article on the Times of Malta today reports new evidence that contradicts the common myth that Valletta was built on arid land.

Mount Sceberras had been chosen by Grand Master Jean de la Valette as the site to build the new capital city after the Great Siege in 1565.

Described in most local history books as a barren outcrop, arid or rocky, the hill had to be levelled before construction could start in 1566 and completed with bastions, forts and the cathedral, all in 15 years.

The new evidence refuting the long-repeated theory came to light last February during the first excavations at St George’s Square by the Valletta Rehabilitation Project.

The oldest part of the square dates back to classical period (circa 8 AD - 395 AD) and investigations revealed rock-cut features. However, fragments of pottery dating back to the late medieval period indicated that the area was still covered by agricultural land until it was built over, Mr Borg said.

“Enough evidence was collected to prove that this was the site of intense ancient and medieval agricultural occupation. This challenges the often-repeated idea that Sceberras Height was just an outcrop of wasteland before the founding of Valletta by the Knights in 1567,” he said.

Gay Pride in Valletta

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This week sees various activities for DiversCity, culminating in the Pride March this Saturday. Pride March is about visibility. It's a celebration of diversity. It's there to voice the wish that same sex relationships are recognised by Maltese law. Its also about a bit of fun and should not be seen as antagonistic toward the rest of society. It's as much about inclusivity as about individuality.

Some have commented that the colourful dressing up, common in more well attended Gay Pride Marches in other cities all over the world, are hardly the best way for LGBTs to be taken seriously and to be assimilated within the mainstream. I have known various gay men who describe themselves as 'straight acting'. They are adamant that what they call men with a camp disposition, those who stand out for not fitting into the grey stereotype of the 'virile' man, are a disservice to other gay men. They are equally scornful of lesbians who's demeanor fall short of what they expect women to look and act like. Their use of the phrase 'straight acting' to describe themselves is a clear sign of their repression, and how unwilling they are to accept the beauty of diversity. Assimilation does not mean melting into a mulch of indistinguishable sameness. It means enriching an already heterogeneous society.

Gay Pride is, above all, a celebration of diversity. That is not to say that the fight for equality is not also part and parcel of Pride. Fighting to change the law so that it recognises same sex civil partnership does not mean playing the victim as some would have us believe. And it is not an impossible task, even when one considers the staid two party system ruled by a powerful church institution Malta is lumped with. Look at Spain. It looks as though Ireland will be following suit too. Both have a very strong Catholic Church and yet they acknowledge the need for society to encourage stable partnerships of love.

Here is the programme of events prepared by MGRM. Hope to see you in Valletta on Saturday.

Mon 13 July: Film festival - 'Ma vie en rose' (released 1997; run-time 88 minutes) St James Cavalier, Valletta

Tue 14 July: Film festival - 'Bent' (released 1997; run-time 105 minutes) St James Cavalier, Valletta

Wed 15 July: Women Space. GAIA Foundation, Ghajn Tuffieha

Thurs 16 July: Film festival - 'I can't think straight' (released 2007; run-time 80 minutes) St James Cavalier, Valletta

Sat 18 July (10:00am at City Gate Valletta): PRIDE MARCH
Sat 18 July (20:30): Concert performance with The Pink Singers (London) and Zghazagh Haddiema Nsara choirs. City Theatre, Valletta
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The new entrance to Valletta

Great expectations in Valletta today as this evening world renowned architect Renzo Piano himself will unveil his plans for City Gate. A hand-built model of the project plans will be the main attraction in this long awaited launch outside the Museum of Archeology. The grand ceremony will also be televised live.

Piano interviewed on Bondi+
Renzo Piano Building Workshop

Square by Christmas

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Various projects are mapped out for the north side of Valletta. There have been reports of a luxury hotel planned just up the road from Valletta G-House (where the Evans Lab building stands now), a boutique hotel where the fish market and the Rural Affairs Ministry now stands (as reported by The Malta Independent on Sunday 17 May 2009), and the development of Fort St Elmo into a centre for cultural and leisure activities with cruise liner berthing in the harbour below.

These are projects that will take some years to materialise. However, the transformation of the Palace Square from unappealing car park into an embellished pedestrianised square is to be ready by this Christmas. The proposed design (see picture) is to feature a lit water installation with 14 jets of water of different heights, lighting fixtures, public wi-fi and street furniture.

The Knights had built a fountain in the square to celebrate the piping of water into Valletta.
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Fireworks festival postponed

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The Malta International Fireworks Festival, which was to be held tomorrow and the day after at the Grand Harbour, has had to be postponed due to a mechanical fault in the ship carrying some of the fireworks. The organiser of the festival, the Malta Tourism Authority, said it is doing its utmost to hold the festival on Friday and Saturday.
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Square

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I can safely say that last Friday's exhibition opening at 68 St Lucy Street was a hit. Square is a collective exhibition of works, the common theme of which is the 10 x 10 inches size of each work. I usually find that the absence of a brief results in chaos, but if that were the case this was one pleasant chaos. The Valletta town house that has been converted into a space for creativity a few months ago keeps on providing us with outstanding stimulation for the brain and for the heart. Square will be open until 19 April. 68 is an 8 minute walk from Valletta G-House.
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Suggestions for an evening with fireworks

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On the eve of 30 April, after an appetizing meal at Rubino's, head to the other side of Valletta. In front of the Knights old Hospital (The Mediterranean Conference Centre) you will find a flight of steps leading down to the Grand Harbour. Sit there, amongst the fishermen's huts and at 21:30 hrs you're in for a pleasant surprise.

The 8th edition of the Malta International Fireworks Festival will start off with a 15 minute fireworks display, designed by one company, followed by various other local factories, all vying for a trophy. Unfortunately I can't promise you'll be alone watching the display but it certainly makes for a romantic evening for you and your significant other.

The festival also commemorates the 5th anniversary to Malta's accession into the European Union.

FLASH NEWS | 29 April 2009:
Fireworks festival postponed
The Malta International Fireworks Festival has had to be postponed due to a mechanical fault in the ship carrying some of the fireworks. The organiser of the festival, the Malta Tourism Authority, said it is doing its utmost to hold the festival on Friday and Saturday.
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New York Times on Malta

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Came across this on the web. Thought I'd share it: The Frugal Traveller in Malta - New York Times. Enjoy
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Water taxi rates

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Customs House on an old postcard

Many of our guests use water taxis to ferry them across the Grand Harbour to the three cities (Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua). The pick up points - Custom House and the Fisheries - are only a mere 5 to 10 minute walk from Valletta G-House and the journey is short and pleasant. The fortifications look even better down at sea too. The Malta Times today reports on a new law regulating the rates charged for use of the water taxi service.

Soon you should be able to catch a water taxi from, say, Sliema to Valletta and it should not cost you more than €5 for two.
The maximum fares the taxis will be able to charge are laid down in a new law expected to be announced today. The law forms part of the promised public transport reform, launched in July.

The island has been divided in six zones and trips from one zone to a neighbouring one will cost €15 for two passengers and €7.50 for each additional passenger.

The fare is €5 for a trip in the same port, for up to two passengers, with an extra €2.50 for each additional passenger. Trips to other zones will cost €40 for up to two passengers and €10 for each additional passenger. Tours around the island will cost a maximum €40 per hour for two passengers and an extra €10 per passenger or hour.

The law, backdated to March 1, speaks of licensed boats to ferry passengers from one point to another. Operators and the crew need a licence issued by the Malta Maritime Authority.

Masters are prohibited from calling or pestering anyone to use the water taxi or employ any person to do so. They have to wear a white shirt, a white Bermuda or long trousers, white socks and closed shoes. They must also issue a receipt after the trip and every receipt must include the date, the amount paid, the origin and the destination of the trip.

The Transport Ministry is today expected to officially announce the legislation for water taxis and ferries and plans for the vertical lift connecting Valletta Waterfront with the Upper Barrakka.

Water taxi services:
maltesewatertaxis.com t. 2180 6921 | m. 9924 7447
Traditional Maltese Dghajsa Tours: m. 7988 5969

Valletta needs you

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As you get lost in the streets and alleys of this World Heritage City, you can't help but notice that quite a few of the properties, some palatial in both size and style, seem to be empty and in need of some TLC. Have you always dreamt of embarking on a Grand Designs type of project? According to BuyAssociation.com, this is the perfect time to invest in a property in Malta.

It takes flair and courage, and most of all, it takes patience. Mediterranean style red tape and a laid back attitude towards work are two things you will need to learn to deal with. Sometimes you will also face a little bit of corruption at all levels and, at that point you will need to make decisions as to what's best to do - it is sometimes not as straight cut as one thinks.

An architect specialised in old properties, who knows his/her stuff can save you a lot of hassle. I have been in "restored" houses where such a lot of irretrievable damage has been done to the structure and integrity of the building that you feel like screaming out "idiots". A builder or even a mason who does not consult the architect because he thinks he knows it all is trouble waiting to happen. Don't even touch him with a barge pole.

I have a feeling that Global Property Guide's claim that Malta is "in the group of countries that has suffered from the most severe drops in property prices" is slightly exaggerated. In appearance I have not really noticed the decrease in prices GPG mentions.

...for people who are keen to own a home on one of the most popular islands for UK holidaymakers the recession could provide the opportunity to get a great bargain. Global Property Guide, along with almost every other industry watcher, doesn’t predict any significant upturn in the property market in 2009.

For those whose capital is not in EURO, they might have a problem:

Maltese property buyers are having to deal with the fact that the Euro has gained so significantly in strength against Sterling in the past six months, so the drop in prices is likely to offset this to some extent. In addition, the possibility of a rally in the value of the Pound against other currencies later in the year should mean that property in the Eurozone becomes cheaper for UK buyers, and may help the beginnings of a recovery for property prices.

Half price entry to museums next Saturday

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A visit to the National Museum of Archaeology in Republic Street, the National Museum of Fine Arts in South Street and the Palace Armoury will only cost half price on Saturday 28 March on the occasion of Valletta day. Tickets from Heritage Malta.
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Fra Cretien, the custodian knight.

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In 1998 the upper part of Fort St Angelo, on the other side of the Grand Harbour from Valletta, was handed over by the Maltese government to the Order of St John for a period of 99 years in an effort to find the finances to restore the fort. Unfortunately the money needed has so far eluded the present incumbents and Fort St Angelo is still crying out for some tender loving care.

The Australian's Angela Shanahan writes of Fra John Cretien's plans for Fort St Angelo:

"Grinding out yet another cigarette on the ancient battlements, he casually remarks he is considering a plan to convert part of it into retirement units for old knights or perhaps a spa for the Euro-rich who moor their yachts in the walled seclusion of Valletta harbour.

"Anyway, whatever we do with St Angelo, it must be in keeping with the charitable spirit of the order, which has morphed into a huge international aid organisation, and hopefully make a bit of money for our present-day work," he says.

Some of the Australian lay knights who have accompanied me on the climb to the bastion look faintly appalled. The knights built Valletta in 1530 after their expulsion from Rhodes and it was from the battlements of St Angelo that they famously repelled the Turkish invasion fleet. In fact, originally they were reluctant to administer Malta, describing it as a barren rocky place, with a bad water supply and people who spoke a form of Arabic."

Read the rest of the article on The Australian News
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An evening with two

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My sister invited me to go watch a Unifaun Theatre play yesterday at the St James Cavalier Centre. Unifaun have featured in the news lately for challenging the absurd censorship of a Nielson play by the local Censorship Board. I have been wanting to go watch Frost/Nixon at the cinema, based on the interview that Frost made with Nixon on the Watergate scandal but have not had the time so far. Like the film, the play I went to watch - The Devil's Advocate - by Donald Freed also deals with the conversation between two people.

The military dictator Manuel Noriega seeks refuge at the Apostolic Nuncio. He and the Vatican's Archbishop Jose Sebastian Laboa partake in a game of accusations that gives us an insight into the relations between the US of A and Latin America. The tension in the play is throughout, with hardly any respite. I don't know if, in effect, it is a failing of the script or in the way it was directed, but there were times I wanted out. Actors Manuel Cauchi and Paul Portelli gave a most powerful performance. My favourite scene where the archbishop prays for Noriega while Noriega danced in a trance titillated me, but I still felt it could have been even stronger had the lights been more dramatic.

Devil's Advocate is on at St James on today, 21, 21, 27, 28, 29 March. Tickets from St James Cav.




Just before the play, we managed to catch a glimpse of Robert Zahra's exhibition of drawings, paintings and photos of city spaces. A strong line, stripped to its raw form, frequently dark and just as compelling. "Mkejjen" is on at St James until 03 May.
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Happy Anniversary

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One piece of information I always share with our guests as I drive them from the airport, soon after I point out the three cities sitting pretty on the other side of the Grand Harbour, regards the Mediterranean Conference Centre. I speak of the healthcare background of the Order of St John and how they had already discovered the attributes of silver. The Knights insisted on silver cutlery being used at the Holy Infirmary for all patients, regardless of social status. These days silver is used extensively in healthcare for its healing qualities.

30 years ago this same building was transformed into a conference centre. The Malta Independent on Sunday featured this yesterday.

The Sacra Infermeria was considered to be one of the best hospitals in Europe and could accommodate 914 patients in an emergency.

Work on this vast edifice started in late 1574 during the reign of Grand Master Jean de la Cassiere (1572-1582) and was extended several times over the years. The “Old Ward”, which is the main attraction, was extended into the “Great Ward” during the years 1660 to 1666 under the rule of the Cotoners. This hall, 155 metres in length, was at the time one of the largest in Europe and described as “one of the grandest interiors in the world”.

In 1676, Grand Master Nicholas Cotoner (1663-1680) founded the School of Anatomy and Surgery at the Infirmary. This school was to be the forerunner of the Medical School of the University of Malta. Surgeon (Later Sir) David Bruce discovered the undulant fever germ (Brucellosis) in 1887, when the hospital was used by the British Military Forces as the Garrison Hospital (1800-1920). During World War II the building suffered serious damage and approximately one third of the complex was destroyed.

When the Order of St John left the Maltese Islands, the French took over the Infirmary in June 1798, just after the occupation of the island by General Napoleon Bonaparte. The Infirmary now became known as Grand Hôpital or Hôpital Militaire. The French carried out various structural alterations to improve the ventilation, sanitation, and lighting of the hospital.

The uprising of the Maltese against the French occupiers on 2 September 1798 meant the decline of the hospital as drugs, fresh meat, and fruit were no longer available at the hospital.

The situation in the hospital and indeed the whole island was so bad that General Calude H. B. Vanois, the commander in chief of the French forces surrendered the island on 5 September 1800 to the British forces.

From 1800 till 1918, the Centre served as a Station Hospital. Situated very near to Grand Harbour, the hospital was within easy reach of the sick and wounded servicemen as hospital ships brought them in. For this reason the Station Hospital was mainly used as a sorting base and also as a centre for dangerously ill patients who could not be moved.

The end of World War I saw the end of the Station Hospital. The Infirmary’s Hall was turned into Police Headquarters from 1918 till 1940. In the ensuring bombardments of Valletta during World War II, the Mediterranean Conference Centre received four direct hits.

Part of what remained standing of the Long Ward was the Entertainment Centre for the allied troops and became known as the Command Hall, from 1945 till 1950. The 1950s brought with them a phase of soul-searching and trying to establish what the purpose and role of this location should be. Between 1950-1951 it was turned into a Children’s Theatre, and from 1959 the Centre served as a school and Examination Hall. Several attempts at restoration and reconstruction of the derelict building were made in 1959 and 1975, with a final effort in 1978 when the building was transformed into the present Mediterranean Conference Centre. The Centre was inaugurated on 11 February 1979, and was awarded the coveted Europa Nostra Diploma of Merit for the “superb restoration of the Sacra Infermeria and its adaptation for use as a conference centre”.

Read the rest of the article on The Malta Independent on Sunday
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Carnival frivolity

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Doesn't carnival give you the same weird feeling that clowns do? It's tragic and comic at the same time. Must say, it did not help that I went to Valletta on my own and was trying a bit too hard to enjoy myself. Must say it was still a fascinating experience from an anthropological viewpoint. I'm sure I would have acted differently had I also had a mask.



Well, Carnivals can turn out to be rather exciting too. I had a Lovely Pinocchio nuzzle his nose under my left ear! (Don't ask. Anything is allowed in Carnival apparently)

I ended the evening with a simple pasta meal at Crianza in Archbishop Street, Valletta...on my own, to enjoy reading the local Sunday papers in peace.
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Renzo Piano back to Valletta

The project for Valletta designed by Renzo Piano made no headway 20 years ago. Is there a possibility that Malta will this time allow the architect of Berlin's Potsdamer Platz and the Centre Georges Pompidou to put his stamp on our city, to put Valletta back on the international map?

Annaliza Borg reports for The Malta Independent:

Italian architect Renzo Piano is to redesign plans for the Royal Opera House building, with the part on the side of Republic Street to become a centre of cultural and historic value. The other area is to host the House of Representatives.

The idea of building an underground car park underneath Freedom Square, which was being considered for some time, was totally abolished as was the idea of developing an underground bus terminus. The bus terminus will be included in Piano’s plans for City Gate but a much smaller terminus for no more than 20 buses at one time will be designed. This would be part of the public transport reform by which the government is proposing some four or five bus termini around Malta rather than one main terminus, among other changes.

The projects will be financed by public funds, since no commercial centres are to be included at City Gate, thus a public-private partnership could not work out. Existing shops at City Gate are to be relocated to other areas. The government could also not obtain EU funds to finance the projects, Dr Gonzi said, since plans were not being drawn up on commercial lines but aimed at giving Valletta its original concept of a city at the centre of the Mediterranean. However, EU funds could be used for the regeneration of Fort St Elmo, Marsamxetto and the Grand Harbour.

While the government is focusing on City Gate and the Royal Opera House site, the Prime Minister pointed out that Fort St Elmo too should be restored. The government is proposing that Fort St Elmo becomes a “centre of culture and art,” part of which is to be used in connection with the cruise liner business. Dr Gonzi also put forward the government’s idea to start work on Fort St Elmo while the City Gate and Royal Opera House projects are in progress.