Walled cities have always held a universal fascination. I grew up within a stone's throw from two such cities. Both Vittoriosa and Valletta, the two Vs, have a strong link to the Order of St John. The World Heritage City of Valletta, soon to be the European Capital of Culture, came about as a result of a victorious war fought from behind the walls of Vittoriosa. Their stories of Knights and Grandmasters, their auberges and palaces intrigue me, as they do visitors and residents alike.